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(No Model.) '5 S Sheet 2. R. EIGKEMEYER. MACHINE FOR GURLING HAT BRIM$. No. 308,758. Patented Dec. 2, 1884.

N. PETERS. F'hnlo-Lllhngmphcr. Wnshmglnn. D. C.

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R. EIOKEMEYER.

MAGHINEFOR GURLING HAT BRIMS; No. 308,758. Patented Dec. 2, 1884.

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(No Model.) -5 Sheets-Sheet 4.

R. EIGKEMEYER. MACHINE FOB. GURLING HAT BRIMS. No. 308,758. Patentedfieo. 2, 1884.

mmiumm n (No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 5.

R. EIOKEMEYER MACHINE FOR GURLING HAT BRIMS.

Patented Dec. 2, 1884.

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Mani-07" NITED STATES,

PATENT OFFICE,

RUDOLF EIOKEMEYER, or YONKERS, NEW YORK.

MAICHINE FOR ouauNe HAT-BRlMS.

SPECIFICATION forming parttof Letters Patent No. 308,758, dated December 2,1884.

Application filed June 24, 1884. (No model.)

T 0 all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, RUDOLF EIOKEMEYER, of Yonkers, in the county of Westchester, in the State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Machines for Curling Hat-Brims; and I do hereby declare that the following specification, taken in connection with the drawings furnished and forming a part thereof, is a clear, true, and complete description of the several features of my invention.

The curling of brims is well known to be an important branch in the manufacture of hats, and the ,state of the art in said branch prior to my present invention may be fairly indicated, as follows, viz: hand operations involvingmlloh manipulation and the use of hand-tools and pressing-irons; also, hand-tools worked upon a special table or bed and with aproperly-mounted hat-block, so that the edge of a hat-brim may be progressively turned, folded, and pressed, while the tools are moved peripherally around the brim; also, a somewhat similar organization of bed, block, and tools, but so arranged that said tools remain stationary, while the block with a hat thereon is revolved for progressively presenting the periphery of the brim to said tools. Whether the curling-tools referred to be moved around the hat-brim, or the latter be revolved, and thereby fed to the tools, there is obviously more or less twisting or tangential strain upon the brim, and if the brim chance to be well heated it is liable to be drawn out of shape, and this liability I seek to and do wholly obviate.

Operations with all of the foregoing tools and machines are comparatively slow and quite expensive, because none but highlyskilled workmen can be relied upon in their use. Molds and presses of various kinds have also been devised and used far enough to demonstrate that if anything was thereby saved in the matter of skilled'labor it was more than offset by slowness in operation, and also by the cost of molds, of which one was not only required for each style of hat, but also for each size.

With a view to rendering the operation more rapid than was possible with ordinary molds or bag-presses, machines have been heretofore devised containing brim-molds con structed in two parts or sections, and provided with means for moving said sections toward and from a brim when interposed between them and asolid mold. So, also, have four similar brim-folding sections been heretofore organized so as to be moved laterally, each into contact with a portion of a hatbrim and forcing it over and upon a central mold.

Types of machines of the two varieties last referred to are shown and described in the United States Letters Patent of Apple, Lindheim, and Baer, dated December 4, 1860, No. 30,7 91, and of Morlot, dated February 1, 1870, No. 99,458. So far as my knowledge extends, no machines of these lastnamed varieties have ever been practically applied to use, which can be accounted for, as I have reason to believe, in part because in the one case each of the two sections embraced one-half of the each of the four sections embraced one-quarter of the periphery, and therefore in neither machine could the edge of a brim be folded in lines at right angles to the periphery of the brim, except at the center of each section; also, in part because in both machines said sections in their separated positions must fail to cover or engage with the entire periphery of the brim, or with a sufficient portion thereof to prevent other portions of the brim from so intervening between the ends of said sections as to cause said portions to protrude upwardly, and to be therefore pinched and crimped when the sections were next forced farther inward- 1y. This inability of the sections to effectually control the entire periphery of a brim must have subsequently involved much expensive and skillful manipulation for correcting the effects of the unequal draft or pull 011 the hatbrim, and also at the crimped portions, and in both machines comparatively expensive molds were required for each size and style of hat. The objects of my invention are to provide for evenly and effectually folding the whole or any lesser portion of the edge of a hat-brim upon itself without the use of molds, and to rapidly enable the operation to be performed by means of mechanism which can be practical] y operated by persons of ordinary intelligence, however unskilled in the. art of brimcurling as heretofore practiced. In my novel machines I use for the first peripheral outline of the folded brim; but in-- stead of using a mold in that connection, as heretofore, I employ a cheap flat annular guide-plate, over which the edge of a brim is folded, and of which a single set or series serves not only for all sizes of hats, but also all variations in width of brim, because each plate has a central opening a little larger than the largest-sized hat-crown, and it can therefore be used on any hat having a smaller crown, and so enable anarrow brim to be de veloped on alarge hat or a wide brim on a small hat, because said plates vary only in their peripheral dimensions. Vith these annular folding guide-plates I also employ a set or series of annular plates, each of which serves as a lifting-plate for enabling the brim-folding ring to properly engage with the edge of a brim, and it also serves as a gage to properly locate the guide-plate upon the brim of a hat, said brim being in turn properly located upon the lifting-plate by a hat-block, which is centrally mounted within said lifting-plate. The

,interior edge line of each liftingplate corresponds with the periphery of the guideplate, but they differ in size, so as to afford an intervening annular space of about one-eighth of an inch, which is about equal to the average thickness of a hat-brim. The brimfolding ring and the hat-block are provided with means whereby the ring is expanded and contracted, and said block and ring are placed into compressing relations, so that a folded brim interposed between said block and guidering can be properly pressed for developing a well-defined edge.

After describing in detail a machine embodying my invention, the several novel features and combinations of mechanism will be specified in the several claims hereunto annexed.

Referring to the five sheets of drawings, Figure 1, Sheet 1, is a vertical central section of a machine in which I have embodied all of the features of my invention, said section be ing on aline from front to rear. The foldingring is shown in its expanded condition, with the hatbed lowered and ready to receive a hat-block. Fig. 2, Sheet 2, is a partial front view and lateral vertical central section of the same with the working parts in position, as shown in Fig. 1, but having a hat-block on the bed and a hat on said block, as if ready to commence the curling operation. Fig. 3, Sheet 2, is a top view of an annular cross-head to which the brim-folding ring is operatively connected. Fig. 4, Sheet 3, is a view like Fig. 1, but with the hat bed and block and a hat fully elevated, thefolding-rin g fully contracted, and a hat-brim folded or curled. Figs. 5 and 6, Sheet 3, illustrate the brim-folding guide-plate and the brim-lifting plate detached in top view, and also in diametrical section. Fig. 7, Sheet 4, is a sectional view of the upper portion of the machine, differing from the corresponding portion of Fig. 2 only in being enlarged and in showing the brim-folding ring in a partiallycontracted condition. Figs. 8 to 13, inclusive, Sheet 4, illustrate in various views detached portions of the machine shown in Fig. 7, fully indicated by corresponding letters of reference. Fig. 14, Sheet 4, is a partial plan and sectional view of the top plate of the machine with a portion of the brimfolding ring in position thereon. Fig. 15, Sheet 4, is an edge view of the lower adjacent portion of Fig. 14. Fig. 16, Sheet 4, is an edge or side view of the top plate of the ma chine detached. the under side of the top plate with a portion of the folding-ring attached thereto and in a contracted condition, another portion of said ring being shown in an expanded condition, and parts of said ring are removed to disclose the under surface of the top plate. Figs. 18 to 20, inclusive, are various views of linger-shoes, of which the brinrfolding ring is in part composed. Figs. 21 to 23, inclusive, are similar views of finger-plates, which also constitute a portion of the folding-ring when constru cted in a specially-desirable manner. Fig. 24 is an edge view of a portion of the brimfolding ring and of the lower portion of the top plate, to which said ring is attached.

The frame A is of a substantial character, including side plates, a, a horizontal middle plate, a, and a top plate, b, of complex construction, illustrated in enlarged detail views on Sheet 4, and it can be best described in connection with Fig. 16, wherein is shown a flat oval cap, I), joined to an oval curved or arched bottom plate, if, by numerous pendent radial webs b the whole capable of being cast in one piece or in separate pieces. It is provided with two side ears perforated to receive bolts, by which it is secured to the top of the side plates, a, and also to receive vertical guide rods, to be hereinafter described. The oval curved bottom plate, 12 is radially slotted, and has on its under side an annular oval arched hub, Z)",-which will hereinafter be again referred to in proper connections.

The hat-bed B is mounted upon a central vertically-reciprocating spindle, B, which is connected with a treadle, B", in the manner shown and described in my prior Letters Patent No. 175,953, April 11, 1876, and No. 200,034, February 5, 1878, in connection with machines for stretching and blocking hatbodies.

Although the treadle B", with the bell-crank Fig. 17, Sheet 5, is a plan of 0 lever B and link B, incombination with a hatsupporting spindle, B, constitutes a feature heretofore patented to me, I herein claim the same, in combination with the hat-bed, the brim-folding ring, and its accompanying mechanism, tobe hereinafterdescribed, said combination enabling results to be obtained which were impossible with any prior machine devised by me containing said treadle and spindle and their intermediate connecting lever and link. Upon the hat-bed there is an annular oval bri1n-lifting plate, 0, which, like the bed, is arched to correspond with the average curve of a hat-brim from front to rear. This brim-lifting plate is one of a set of thin, cheap, metal plates, varying according to the peripheral dimensions of brims to be curled, and each has a pair of pendent dowel-pins, Figs. 5 and 6, which occupy corresponding holes (not shown) in the hat-bed, said holes being so located as to prevent said plate from being improperly set on the bed. The prime function of said plate 0 is that of a liftingplate for lifting the edge of a brim, as will be hereinafter described, but it also in one sense serves as a gage-plate for properly locating a brim-folding guide-plate, (2, Figs. 5 and 6, which is one of a set of cheap thin plates provided with vertical dowel-pins d, which pro ject from the upper surface and occupy holes that the folding guide-plate cl and the liftingring 0 are not true ovals, but are what are known as egg ovals or hat ovals, and that therefore it is important that the dowelpins 0 and d should be respectively so arranged thereon that each of said an nular-plates will not only be accurately located with reference to centers, but also with reference to having the small ends of each plate always in their proper position when mounted for service, and therefore said pins in each case are irregularly located, as shown, so that neither annularplate can possibly be mounted out ot' its true position, and the same provisions are made in connection with the hatblo'ck e, which has not only a central hole for receiving the spindle B, but also on each side of its center, the holes 0, which receive the dowel-pins c projecting upward from the hat-bed. In lieu of said irregularly-located dowel pins for the hat-block, I have employed a novel triangular chuck and socket devised by me, which properly centers the hat-block, and also renders it ,impossible for said block to be mounted on said bed other than in its exactly proper po sition.

Vhile the folding-ring shown is arranged to co-operate with a lifting-ring, it is to be understood that I do notlimit myself thereto,

because I am well aware that said foldingring can be organized not only to operate also as its own lilting-ring, but also still further as a compressing-ring, and so as to be operative, without the vertically-reciprocating hat-bed, and such a folding-ring has been devised by me, and will constitute in part the subject of a separate application for Letters Patent.

As thus far described it will be readily seen that when ahat, e, (on a block, e, as shown, and properly mounted upon the hat-bed and block-spindle,) has its brim a compressed at its upper surface by the folding guide-plate d, that the entire periphery of the brim will be turned upwardly by the aid of the liftingplate 0 to a greater or less extent, as indi cated in dotted lines in Fig. 6, thus placing said edge readily within the control of the novel brim-folding ring C, so that when'said ring is contracted it will fold the edge of the brim inwardly over the edge of the guideplate (I, and flatly upon its upper surface.

This brim-foldin g ring may belargely varied in construction without departure from certain portions of my invention. I have practically employed these rings variously constructed, and have always obtained good re sults with such as substantial] y maintain their annular or ring-like character when in their expanded condition, and which are therefore enabled to evenly fold the edge of a brim with out crimping or pinching any of the unfolded portions into ridges, because all of the working-surface of the ring moves in folding at right angles to and across the peripheral line of the brim,

I have employed a ring composed of metallic sections faced with an unbroken elastic ring of vulcanized rubber, and also a ring composed only of simple metallic sections, and I iind that the latter will perform as good service'as when faced with rubber; but 'I have obtained very desirable results with a ring composed of complex metallic sections, each of which operates as a foldingfinger, so that said ring embodics,in fact,two connected and co-operating series of radially-movable segmental sections. If it should be desired to fold the edge of a trptvcircular brim, the ring is made truly circular in form; but the usual outline ofhat-bri ms is aha-t oval, and therefore Ihave illustrated my machine as organized for folding or curling the edges of such oval brims.

-In order to obtain the results desired, each quarter of the ring must embody a series of sections, and each section must be movable in radial lines, and if the ring be circular the said lines of movement will radiate from a single central point, but if the ring be oval, said lines will radiate from two or more interior central points.

The construction of the folding-ring can be best described in connection with Figs. 14 and- 15, Sheet 4i, and the several figures on Sheet 5. As before stated, good results will accrue by the use of simple radially-movable sections in top view and in rear end view.

but in that case a large number thereof should be employed, each being in a general way like the finger shoe or section f. (Shown in detail in Figs. 18 to 20, inclusive.) In the machine here shown only twelve of said finger-shoes are used, each quarter of the ring having three sections, and if simple sections are to be used the number should be greatly incrcased-say at least doubled; but,'as here shown, twelve serve a good purpose, because they are complex, inasmuch as with them I employ co-opcrating intervening finger plates or sections 9, thus, in all, making substantially twenty-four sections, and I have successfully employed a much larger number of sections.

A fingershoe section in Figs. 18 to 20, inclusive, is illustrated in longitudinal section, As clearly shown, its inner end is concave or in the arc of a circle, (or oval,) and is upwardly turned to afford a brinrfolding surface, and its sides are inclined from end to end to correspond to the radiating lines of the particular portion of the folding-ring which it occupies. At each side it has a vertical web, and it also has a pair of vertical studs or posts, f one at each endand on top of these there is secured a slotted plate, f wider than said studs,so that when the latter occupy a radial slot, b, in the arched frame-plate If the finger-shoe sections will be supported by said frame-plate, and be free to slidelongitudinallyin said slot 1/.

A finger plate or section, is shown in top 'view, rear end view, and longitudinal section in Figs. 21 to 23, inclusive, Sheet 5. They are composed, mainly, of thin sheet metal, and have an outline corresponding to that of the shoe-sections. At its center each finger-plate has a vertical longitudinal web, g, having at each side thereof alaterallyprojecting web,

g". Now, referring to Figs. 17 and 24, Sheet 5, it will be seen that between the wide radial open slots b there are narrow radial grooves which receive the webs g on the fingerplates. As will be seen in Figs. 18 to 20, the finger-shoe sections have lateral recesses or openings 9" in the webs at each side thereof, which receive in each case one of thelaterallyprojecting webs, 9*, so that the several fingershoes not only support the finger-plates, but they are so interlocked therewith that when said shoes are radially moved they carry with them the fingerplates. As has before been stated, said fingenplates are composed of thin sheet metal, and their inner ends, like the finger-shoes, are turned upwardly and for the same purpose, but they project beyond the shoes to the extent of the thickness of said plates, so that when the folding-ring is wholly contracted the curved inner ends of thefingerplates are in continuous contact, and overlie or cover the curved inner ends of the fingershoes, as indicated at the upper portion of Fig. 17, so that when the folding-ring is fully expanded the inner ends of the shoes and finger-plates present a practically-continubrim.

ous oval outline, although as the ring is contractcd the finger-plates gradually cover the shoes.

In order that the fingershoes f may closely approach each other, each is laterally recessed at its side to accommodate the web 9 on the adjacent finger-plates, as clearly indicated.

The means for causing the brim-folding ring to contract and expand may be widely varied without departure from certain features of my invention, the main point being to provide for uniform and simultaneous action at all parts of the ring.

As here shown, I employ mechanism somewhat similar to that heretofore used by me in my machines for blocking and stretching hats, as shown, described, and claimed in certain Letters Patent heretofore issued to me, but I herein claim said mechanism, in combination with the contractible and expansible brim folding ring, whereby novel results are ob tained which were not possible in 'any prior organization of mine wherein said patented mechanism has been employed.

, Each linger-shoe is vibrated by means of a bell-crank lever, h, pivoted to a bracket, h, bolted to the top frame-plate, b, and each 1ever his connected to an annular cross-head, I), by means of a link, If, and an adjustable pivotbolt, If, all as clearly indicated in Fig. 7, Sheet 4, and in the detail views, Figs. 8 to 13, inclusive. The cross-head D is secured to the vertical sliding guide-rods t, and it is coupled at one side by a link, i, to a lever arm, 6-, on the rock-shaft E, to which thehandlever F is attached, another link, i, being connected therewith, as clearly indicatedin Figs. 1, 2, and 4, whereby said cross-head is verticall y reciprocated for contracting and expand ing the brim-folding rin In Fig. lthe hatbed is'shown in its lowest position, ready to receive a block with a hat thereon, and the folding-ring is fully expanded, the hand-lever F being depressed. In Fig. 2 the working parts of the machine are in the same position as in Fig. 1; but a hat-block isin place with a hat thereon ready for the brim-curling operation. In Fig. 7 the hat bed and ring have been placed into working relations by depressing the footlever or treadle B, and the handlever F has been partially raised and thebrimfolding ring partially contracted. In Fig. 4, Sheet 3, the ring is shown fully contracted, the brim wholly folded, and receiving pressure applied at the 'treadle for thoroughly developing the folded edge of the interposed It will of course be understood that the brims are first well heated, and that they are more or less cooled during the folding operation, but that the folded edge readily admits of the release of the folding guide-plate after the operation is concluded.- The brims, having been thus folded and curled,are finished according to particular requirements, and I have devised a series of accompanying mechanism by which certain preceding trimming ICC operations are performed, and also such subsequent finishing operations as may be required can be rapidly and effectually accomplished.

It Will be seen that the working parts of the machine may be variously organized without departure from certain portions of my inventionas, for instance, the brim-folding ring and the hat-bed may be reversed in their positionsand I have, as hereinbefore indicated, organized one form of machine in which the foldingring is mounted upon a hat-bed, and wherein certain additional novel features are involved, which will be made the subject of a separate application for Letters Patent.

While I find that the foot lever and handlever are ample for profitably operating the machine, it is obvious that motive power may be applied for imparting motions corresponding to those due to the movements of said levers without departure from certain features of my invention.

Having described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent 1. An expansible and contractible brim-folding ring, each quarter of which is composed of several radially-movable segmental sections each having a brim-folding edge at its inner end, substantially as described, whereby in moving inwardly the folding-edge of each sec tion will wholly act upon the edge of a brim, substantially at right angles to or crossing the peripheral line of the brim of a hat, and in radial lines, substantially as set forth.

2. An expansible and contractible brim-folding ring embodying two connected and coopcrating series of radially-movable segmental sections, substantially as described.

3. An expansible an'd contractible oval brimfolding ring embodying segmental sections, which are provided with upwardly-turned folding-edges at their inner ends, and are adapted to be moved in lines radiating from 'two or more interior points, substantially as described.

4. An expansible and contractible oval brimfolding ring embodying two connected and eo-operating series of segmental sections, movable in lines radiating from two or more interior central points, substantially as described.

5. The combination, substantially as hereinbefore described,of a contractible and expansible brim-folding ring, an annularbrinrfolding guide-plate,ahat-bed for supporting ahatbrim with said guide-plate pressed thereon, and means, substantially as described, for radially expanding and contracting said ring, and, after contraction, for forcing said bed and ring toward each other, and thereby compressing the interposed portions of the edge of a hat-brim, as set forth.

6. The combination, substantially as hereinbefore described, of the expansible and contraotible brim-folding ring, the hat-supporting bed, means, substantially as described, for moving the bed and the ring into co-operative relations and for operating the ring. the brimlifting annular plate mounted on said bed, and the annular guide-plate smaller than said lifting-plate.

7. The combination, with the brim-folding ring, the guide-plate, and the lifting-plate, of the hat-bed,the hat-block,the vertically-reciprocating spindle, and the treadle levers and links, substantially as described.

8. The combination of the expansible and contractible brim-folding ring, the series of bell-crank levers coupled thereto, and the vertically-reciprocating cross-head linked to said levers, substantially as described.

9. The combination,with an expansible and contractible oval brim-folding ring, of a hatfor centering said block and accurately locating the front and rear portions of a hat-brim in saichring, as set forth.

10. The combination, substantially as described, of the hat-bed and oval brim-folding ring, of the oval hat-bloc l:, the oval annular folding guide-plate, the oval annular liftingplate, and means, substantially as described, for centering said block and plates, and for accurately mounting them in working position, as set forth.

11. The combination of the folding guideplate, the oval hub on which it is mounted, and the irregularly-located dowel-pins and holes by which the plate is accurately mounted on said hub, substantially as described.

tUDOLF EIGKEMEYER.

YVitnesses:

R. DUTTON, RUD. EICKEMEYER, .I r.

block, and means, substantially as described, 

